As the new Norma’s Sweets Bakery in Mid-City shows, it can mean huge cartons of carne asada and tortillas cooked on the griddle as you watch or a bracingly tart ceviche of shrimp, drum and scallops stored in iced tubs by the cash register. It could mean chimitacos, which are cigar-shaped crunch fests of chicken-stuffed tortillas piled with vinegary curtido slaw. Or it could mean possibly the best Cuban sandwich in town, with ham and crumbling tender roast pork encased in butter-crisped bread that was baked in house.